Last week, we broke down what I look for when evaluating small ponds and lakes. Often times, these fisheries get overlooked when they can actually hold some pretty dang good fishing! This week we’re going to discuss how I like to target panfish in these lakes.

Slipbobber Success

It was in 2012 that my panfishing changed forever. I was on the Iowa Great Lakes and chasing panfish with hair jigs and a combination of minnows and wax worms. I was vertical jigging for fish in 20-25ft of water on those deep, submerged weed beds, but it just wasn’t working out.

I was chatting with fellow anglers at the baitshop and I unfortunately do not remember the gentleman’s name, but he was kind enough to show me the rig that he was bring in buckets full of panfish on. I tied it on exactly as he had shown me and it was bobber down the rest of the trip!

I have tinkered with a variety of ways to rig these bobbers and to this day I have found this is still the most effective method. I’ve translated this same presentation to walleye, smallmouth/largemouth bass, northern pike and even catfish. The rig just works! Let’s talk about what it is.

Now as I said I use this presentation for a variety of species. If you’re looking for an all-around presentation that you can catch panfish, bass, walleye and even pike or cats on I recommend a 7ft, medium-fast set up with 8-10lb Fireline. The tip is sensitive enough to feel fish, but the backbone can get a strong hookset and bring in those big pike and walleyes too.

When I’m simply targeting panfish, I go with a 6’6″ Ultralight with 4lb monofilament. The main reason is I love the fight those buggers put up! You also have an even greater sensitivity when reeling down and feeling even the smallest of fish.

For the rig itself, I first put on my slipknot. Benefits of the slipknot is exactly what it sounds like. You can slide it and adjust your depth quickly and easily. Fishing in 25ft like I was? No problem. I then put a small bead for my bobber to slipknot, just to keep the knot a little nicer. I then slide on a 1/8oz egg sinker. Heavy enough to cast, but the bobber sits perfect.

We then connect our mainline to leader line with a small barrel swivel. This also is what acts as a stop for my weight. I use a palomar knot to tie my braid to the swivel, but if you’re using mono a uni knot works perfect too.

If I’m going after panfish exclusively, 4-6lb fluorocarbon is perfect. I like to put a 4mm or 5mm bead on to add just a little more color above my bait. For panfish, I like a #8-#6 Aberdeen or Octopus hook.

If you’re a visual learner or struggling to visualize the presentation I’m describing, I have you covered! Check out this video below that I break down my entire slipbobber rig!

Location

You need to keep in mind we are not fishing for the top predators in the system, they need to be close to somewhere they can hide. Submerged grasses and weed beds provide both food and cover. This makes it the perfect location to target these panfish!

The slipbobber brings out all the best of my location when it comes to panfish. I always start my search around vegetation. The main thing I’m looking for is an established weed patch, but not so much that it is too thick to fish!

I want my slipbobber to keep my bait right above the weeds and grasses and let the fish come up to it. The most aggressive fish are going to be the ones willing to come up and take a look.

Diet and Presentation

Panfish expert, Chris Seylar, lets the fish’s diet really dictate his presentations. Macro invertebrates compose a large part of the panfish diet, especially when they are smaller. Depending on the water body, leeches and even minnows can be attractive to particularly those larger fish.

For this reason, Chris favors larger, more aggressive baits. He starts with larger and flashier baits to bring fish in. These could be hair jigs, tube jigs or plastics to add more flash and color to the bait. If these presentations fail, that is when he will slide down to the smaller, more natural presentations.

In this video, he breaks down how he targets late-spring and early summer panfish on the Iowa Great Lakes using this tactic!

Putting It All Together

Once you’ve decided what waterbody you are going to fish, it’s time to find those fishable weed pockets and edges that will be holding fish. Keep moving until you can contact the fish you’re looking for!

Start by pitching in a more aggressive bait such as a tube jig, hair jig, minnow or even a leech. This will help target the biggest fish in the area and also the most aggressive fish. If you’re on fish, but struggling to get bites it is time to downsize. Wax worms, crawlers or even just taking off the tube or switch from hair jig to standard leadhead can be a huge difference in coaxing biters.

Once you’ve found the sweet spot, it’s all about having fun and catching fish! In these next two videos, I highlight (somewhat comically) the best way to make sure you’re landing the most fish possible. Check it out!

Next, we’ll talk how to target bass in these same small ponds. In the meantime, I wish you all the best of luck and hope you can have some fun out on your local ponds. Good fishing!

Related Reading

The first step in finding success on small ponds, is determining which ones are going to be the most worthwhile. In the first article, Nick breaks down everything to look for in a perfect panfish and bass pond. Learn more in Small Pond Strategies.

The most popular game fish in America, largemouth bass are the true kings of many small ponds and lakes across the country. Find out how to target the most popular fish in the country in Small Pond Strategies: Bass.

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